More and more professionals are shopping for these waterproof digital cameras to capture a world in which new discoveries are created day after day. In the past notso way back these amazing things of modern invention used to be so huge and heavy that it required exclusive care to move them from place to place. Now thanks to technology our engineers can build new Watertight Digital Camera with smaller elements to accommodate the electronics. In time the only thing that will stick out and be an eyesore would be the quality water proof lens used to capture the underwater world.

Everyone ought to own a Waterproof Digital Camera not for showing off but purely to capture what your eyes see. Each camper who either goes camping in the hills at the side of a running river or to the sea out on a ship positively wants to own a waterproof digital camera. It’s not only bad not to have one however silly if you’ve left home without one.

The voyager always has a recording medium to seize those moments for eternity and what better way than with a water-proof digital camera digital. These marvels do not have to be high-priced. As a matter of reality they are not much more completely different then those that are not water-resistant digital cameras. The costs of impermeable digital camera has come down thanks to rivalry and consumer buy strength.

Several individuals are owning a unit or two now. A number of these beauties come with ten mega pixel capability and over. As I said they are more or less the same value range as the non-rainproof digital camera. Most brands are of equal par since the technology advances at about the same rate for all manufacturers. My preferred camera brand is the Olympus since they do have standardization in their expertise. However, Canon, Panasonic and different brands additionally have great rainproof digital cameras.

Continuously have one handy prepared and charged with further batteries to take all those worthwhile moments to hard disk, however make sure you make a backup reproduction of your photos when you go back home so that in the event of a hard-disk crash you have a secure copy of your precious photos and films.

One should also keep in mind that just because something is impermeable digital cameras does not mean that you should treat them with less protection. Although water is sort of a soft to touch form the identical can’t be said of mud or sand. Therefore do make sure to take care of your water-resistant digital camera.

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You will come across few terms which are used in telling you about how to bring the flash to your control. But unless you have the background of these terms (and how a flash works), it will be a guessing game for you (and land up in the… ‘ok just tell me the settings and I will shoot perfectly’ end of the road).

So in this article, I cover few (very) basics of terminologies and flash internal functioning (Just the ‘A’ of ABC). But these fundamentals will make your foundations strong and make you ready for the ‘real field work’. By the way, most of this terms and explanations are applicable to internal built-in pop-up flashes as well.

I. Internal functioning of a flash

A flash emits burst of light and the amount of light which is emitted is determined by the size of the flash tube and the energy of the electric discharge (compare lightning). The discharge is ‘quenched’ early, if full flash is not necessary.

II. Flash Metering System

The internal electronics inside the camera and the flash that determines how much light is present in the environment (scene) and depending on that how much flash power is required to properly illuminate the “subject”. The automatic flash metering system in the camera determines when the flash discharge needs to be stopped to give the correct exposure.

So you can understand, we are leaving “everything” to the camera and the flash in deciding starting from what is the subject to how much flash power is required. As you have guessed it, things may not be always be correctly estimated and then the photographer’s judgment comes in (or the dreaded M Mode).

II. TTL and ETTL (and the newer ETTL II) Metering Method

There are more than the above 3 methods of flash metering system available, but I will concentrate only on these as these are the most available and applicable throughout the SLR ranges.

TTL stands for ‘Through The Lens’ flash metering. This mode is used only with film cameras where the light reflected from the “film” is measured by electronic sensors in (or above) the base of the camera. When enough light has been received the flash is cut off. Since we are mostly in D-world, I will skip the detail explanation of this type of metering.

E-TTL stands for ‘Evaluative Through The Lens’ metering. In this mode the flash tube emits a pre-flash and the camera’s automatic metering system is used to determine how much flash power is necessary for proper exposure. This method results in more accurate flash metering as the exposure is determined prior to the main flash firing.

Note: E-TTL mode is required for DSLRs as the digital sensor does not reflect light in the same way as film does and so TTL metering cannot be used.

E-TTL II is similar to E-TTL with the addition of the feature of the camera body returning the focus distance to the flash which can be used in determining flash exposure.

Note: E-TTL II is a camera body based modification of E-TTL, hence all E-TTL capable flashes can also operate in E-TTL II mode if used with an E-TTL II compatible body.

BONUS TIP: The flash metering system works separately (and independently) than the camera’s metering system. This means with already other sources of light present (ambient light), the Av, Tv and P modes adjusts the camera setting appropriately (either by varying shutter, aperture or both respectively) solely based on the ambient light. This is camera’s metering system in work. Whereas, the flash metering system works when the shutter is half pressed and sets the best suitable flash power BASED ON the camera exposure settings.

Note: The P mode uses no slower shutter speed than 1/60sec when flash is on.

Bottom-line: The automatic flash metering system DOES NOT change your camera’s exposure settings. Your camera’s metering system DOES NOT take into account the presence of flash when setting the exposure settings.

III. Guide Number (GN)

Guide Number(GN) is a measure of the power of the flash in terms of aperture(A) in f-stop and distance(D) of flash from subject.

GN = A x D

It is normally expressed as x ft/m at ISO y at focal length L.

The GN assumes an undiffused direct path from flash to subject (and not bounce flash or using diffusers - a separate topic altogether).

This value can be used in different ways, one of them is to manually set the correct aperture for proper exposure when the distance D between the flash and the subjects is known provided the same ISO specified in the guide number is used.

If you use 4 times the ISO, then the GN value doubles. Alternatively you can also determine the maximum distance that will get properly illuminated at a given aperture.

IV. Sync Speed

By definition, sync speed = the fastest shutter speed at which the first curtain of the shutter fully opens before the second curtain closes.

Now let me explain this. When you press the shutter, an opaque screen (first curtain) opens up to let the light flow in. Then another opaque screen (second curtain) follows cutting out the light.

Say you have selected shutter speed x sec. So the first curtain will open and the second curtain will close at speeds to give the exposure of x secs. Now if x is too fast, the second curtain will have to start closing even before the first curtain has completely opened. This to allow only x secs of exposure. Thus you can imagine a slit is formed between the first curtain and the second curtain. This situation is absolutely a no-no for flash photography. The first curtain needs to be fully open before the second curtain comes down so that the complete scene is properly lit. For the proper exposure from flash source, we must select the shutter speed slower than x secs (the sync speed) where any shutter speed faster than x sec will cause the second curtain to start closing before the first curtain is completely open.

As mentioned earlier if the shutter speed is faster than the sync speed, the second curtain of the shutter starts closing and actually forms a slit which moves across the image. If the flash is fired during this time, then only a part of the image will be captured by the sensor as lit by the flash (which is quite sad).

Note 1: The faster the shutter speed, the narrower the slit.

Note 2: The sync speed is the property of the camera body.

Note 3: This topic definitely needs a second discussion in details (upcoming articles).

V. FP sync

FP stands for ‘Focal Plane’. If you DO need to use the flash with shutter speed higher than the sync speed (and do not want only a portion of your photo to be lit, the rest being black), you have to use the FP sync mode of your flash (if it supports it). In this mode the flash tube emits a series of very fast flash bursts so that it seems like a continuous light to the camera sensor (or film). This allows the use of fast shutter speeds (see illustration link below). Of course this mode reduces the effective power of the flash (GN) considerably and drains a lot of flash battery power. But, hey you get your job done.

VI. Conclusion

As you can see there’s a LOT of things involved when you are shooting with a flash at different levels, so this topic needs to settle down in your brain and photography as your second nature bit by bit. I have explained the basic terminologies here. If you haven’t got hold of any flash photography books yet to read more in details, I would highly recommend getting one (from library or book store).

To see diagrams used to illustrate 1st curtain sync, 2nd curtain sync and FP Sync please visit: Flash Photography Terminologies

Sudipta Shaw is a software professional and a self-made photographer. He likes to teach and mentor as well. Visit his website Pleasure Photography to explore more about mastering Photography skills

Article Source:http://www.articlesbase.com/digital-photography-articles/flash-photography-terminologies-1775554.html

Knowing how to wash a camera lens is a top concern. A little bit of dust or grime on your optics could cause all sorts of problems.

Powerful light will show up dust and mud in your footage, while general dirt will affect image sharpness, so it’s necessary you keep them clean.

Before you wipe the front of your lens, shed any dust or grit which will scratch the glass. A good quality soft brush or air blower is ideal. Clean all of lens constantly, guaranteeing that the external moving parts are free from dust and mud, particularly sand which can cause tons of issues and scratches.

It’s excellent for wiping moisture and muck off your kit and if you sling it over the top of your lens it can even keep your gear dry in light rain. Bike and car photographers regularly throw a chamois leather over camera and lens to protect them from flying mud.

It can stop flare spoiling your photographs, but also protect the front part against impact damage.

Or, try the classic DIY solution - rip a hole in the bottom of a plastic bag and slip it over the lens and camera, held in place with two elastic bands!

It’s best to take a position in a screw-in skylight filter for every one of your lenses. They’re much less expensive to replace than a whole lens if you accidentally scratch it.

To learn more tips and techniques for better pictures check out, Understanding Digital Photography

Taking beautiful pictures is my hobby and my passion. I hope the information you read here will help you take beautiful pictures. Check out my lens, href="http://www.squidoo.com/understanding-digital-photography"
target="_top">Understanding Digital Photography!

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With the advent of electronic cameras, the price of photography has plummeted considerably, with the result that there was a flood of interest in the field. Greenhorns in this area needn’t fret. Sharpening up on your digital photography skills is simple, provided you have the basics at the end of your tongues, or is it, at the end of your lenses!

Mastering the basics of digital photography, first and foremost involves knowing all about pixels and resolutions. These are the parameters possessing a direct bearing, and quite a lion’s share on the standard of the images being generated. The more the pixel count, the better the resolution or clarity of the picture and the better it turns out when enlarged. So it is plain that the fastidious photographers prefer robust pixel values. However , with the market flooded with electronic cameras of varied makes, you can hope for a good bargain. Let us discuss a few basics of digital photography.

Zoom And Tele Lenses

Going digital has additionally meant that you can click away merrily at everything under the sun. This will only help you get well up on the nitty-gritty of the zoom modes. The Optical Zoom of a camera is worth tinkering with. The’Telephoto’ mode makes your subject appear larger while the’Wide Angle’ mode is all about cramming lots of a scene into your picture and therefore the parts of the picture appear smaller.

Focusing

Lighting

There’s no such thing as a photography gene.
Using the Flash

The flash is sort of a lure for the amateur cameraman but results are not always satisfactory. This is as wrong use of the flash function leads to the marring of good photos. In fact, the flash truly leads to underexposure, and thus ungainly shadows in night photography. While you are using this feature, in. nearer to your subject and thus make sure that all the areas of the picture are equally lighted up.

The shutter speed is one area that many newcomers to digital photography is quite unmindful to. The rule : fast shutter speeds’freeze’ the action, while slow values will result in a blur.

Taking beautiful pictures is my past-time and my keenness. I am hoping the info you read here will help you take gorgeous pictures.

Check out my lens, Understanding Digital Photography!
.

Taking beautiful pictures is my hobby and my passion. I hope the information you read here will help you take beautiful pictures. Check out my lens, href="http://www.squidoo.com/understanding-digital-photography"
target="_top">Understanding Digital Photography!

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Continuing focus mode is generally used when either the topic or the camera is moving. In this mode the camera steadily adjusts the focus for as long as you half-press the shutter release, so it can track movement.

When you fully press the shutter release the camera will take the image without reference to whether the topic is in focus or not, so you want to take a touch more care with this mode than the single shot option. You may use this mode for static subjects, but it’s less helpful than single shot mode because it doesn’t have to lock on to the subject to let you to take the image.

This implies that features like focus lock are harder, or perhaps most unlikely, to use successfully. Remember, in single shot mode the camera will not allow you to take a picture until the focus has locked onto the subject, which is mostly indicated by a green focus confirmation circle in the viewfinder display ( and often an audible beep ).

If the focus point strays onto something in front of or behind the topic, the camera will concentrate on that instead of the main subject.

The most effective way to do that is to get out of doors and start clicking away at what you find in your cameras eye viewer.

Taking beautiful pictures is my hobby and my passion. I hope the information you read here will help you take beautiful pictures. Check out my lens, Understanding Digital Photography!

Taking beautiful pictures is my hobby and my passion. I hope the information you read here will help you take beautiful pictures. Check out my lens, href="http://www.squidoo.com/understanding-digital-photography"
target="_top">Understanding Digital Photography!

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